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Robertsmania last won the day on March 6

Robertsmania had the most liked content!

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  1. +1 on ATS Acoustics. I've had good luck with panels from them.
  2. Wow! That takes me back. My parents had that album when I was a small child and I remember finding that cover and thinking it was so erotic.
  3. For my SUB THREES it would be better to have 3ft power cords with right angle plugs (where they go into the outlet). I purchased 14 gauge UL Listed cords and found the same locking IEC connectors that came with the subs and wired them up. For the specific case of subwoofer power cables, I think it is critical to continue to use the locking mechanism where they go into the amplifier. These things VIBRATE and I would totally expect a standard IEC connector to work itself loose after years of use. Perhaps I should let them marinate in whipped cream for a few days to ensu
  4. I am so very happy with my system right now! Seriously, it has never sounded better and I cant stop listening to one album after another. ----- First of all, I found a good crossover setting. In my room, with the placement and distances between the mains and subwoofers, I find crossing them over at 80Hz does sound best. Making the switch from the fixed X-2 to M5-HPB crossovers I was a little frustrated that my choices seemed to be either 55Hz or 105Hz with the settings in the documentation. Experimenting with other non documented settings, I was able to find a go
  5. If it was very fast, its what they call a "quick sweep" and if it was longer (10-20 seconds) its a frequency sweep. Maybe there is more correct terminology? Its typically used with software on a computer and/or electronics in your system. I use a program called Room EQ Wizard (REW). Its free and with a relatively inexpensive USB microphone you can get pretty accurate and consistent measurements with a great deal of information. I encourage anyone to take a look and try it out. https://www.roomeqwizard.com There are other programs that do similar things that are more professional
  6. Crap, typo above... Its correct in the spreadsheet, but I mistyped the value. The one that seems to be a good 80Hz match is with 2,8,9 ON.
  7. Taking a look at some more settings, I think I may have a good 80Hz crossover with the M5-HPB using switches 2,8,10 ON. All the measurements I'm doing with undocumented settings are with the subs disconnected and I'll confirm this is okay before using them. With the 0.5dB resolution on the volume control of my preamp, I can't get exactly 1.0V at 1KHZ. So my approach is to get as close as possible, and then add/subtract the difference to the 0.707V target. I've verified consistent results using the vandertones tracks as well as my signal generator, and have then a sine wave tone t
  8. No, the old subs went away last month. I think there are questions in the Ask Richard section about mixing 2W's and 2Wq's and that was not recommended. So I doubt two really old 2Ws would mate very well with the new SUB THREES. What I hear from them in the same room locations with the same crossovers is a lot better and I'm also running them with much lower sensitivity level to get similar SPL output. I think the adjustable contour makes a huge difference - and that would be a weird thing trying to balance the old/new with different Q values. I have thought about using one input on ea
  9. Thank you for the clarification. My amplifier is a Sunfire TGA-5200 and its documentation indicates the XLR input impedance is 10K Ohms (each leg). The main speakers are 2Ce Signature IIs. The fixed X-2 crossovers I have are labeled 10K. They measure 0.193 uF which is close to the mathematical target for an 80Hz -3dB crossover if the amplifier's input impedance is listed correctly. Indeed, the volt meter agrees with that showing 0.691V at 80Hz. So it crosses just above 80Hz but its pretty close. The setting on the M5-HPB that is the closest for my system is with switches 1,
  10. I stayed up way too late last night listening to stuff. I had discovered a distortion issue with the midrange drivers in my 2Ce Sig II mains and had sent them in for repair. After putting the rebuilt drivers back in the system yesterday I couldn't stop listening to a wide range of recordings and was consistently blown away by how much better the system sounds now. Amazing. Anyway... eventually I was able to tear myself away from track surfing and took some measurements of the crossover options I have for the subwoofers. There are three options: The old fixed X-2 cros
  11. Thanks guys, and yes the room is pretty large. It's a second story addition to the home which a previous owner built back in the '90s. It's a single room which is nearly two thirds as large as the entire downstairs. High vaulted ceilings and what would normally be an odd extruded section following the architecture of the structure below that makes a natural proscenium for our home theater projection surface. In full frame 16x9 the image is 168" on the diagonal (that's 14 feet). We sit about 23 feet back from it, so its not super overwhelming but it is certainly a lot like being in a r
  12. SOLVED! The repair has been successful. I received the rebuilt midranges today and have installed them back in the speakers. Everything appears to be significantly better. Measuring the speakers one at a time in the center of the room the frequency response is way more consistent across the whole range and the distortion is also much more symmetrical. I still need to finish putting everything back in terms of stapling the fabric and re-mounting the bases and stuff. Looking forward to a listening session tonight. Thanks to everyone who replied to this thread and I'm v
  13. Yes, I sent the midranges in for repair last week. UPS says they are out for delivery today. Amazingly quick turn around and excellent communication from Ray in the service department. I'll report back once the speakers are back together and I've had a chance to evaluate them with the newly rebuilt midranges, but I have supreme confidence all will be well.
  14. Sorry, I posted about the batteries in the crossovers and then saw that you already had them replaced...
  15. I think it's time to seek professional help. Ha! How many times have I heard that... My thought had been to remove the midrange drivers from both speakers, swap them and test to see if the problem goes with the driver. If there is an issue and I can just send in one or both that would be great, but perhaps Vandersteen support will want me to send the entire speaker(s). Taking up the fabric, nothing appears visually wrong with the midrange on the L midrange driver. It is sealed on pretty well and does not seem easy to pop off with the screws removed. So even though the instructio
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