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M5-HPF battery replacement (XLR)


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It looks like all the dip switches need to be off for 100k input impedance of the amp, but the used M5-HPFs are old, and I noticed a 9V battery inside.
Should I be rocking the PCB back to get to it, or just desolder the old battery at the posts and solder the new battery at the posts?
It looks like it should be easier to desolder the old batter at the PCB, and then solder to the posts of the new battery… and then solder the jumpers to the PCB as the second step.

Almost tempted to attach a 9V regular battery plug in harness, but I suppose it is a better connection with the solder.

 

Another question, which I assume is “Doesn’t matter” is:
Does it matter whether I put these near the preamp? Or near the amp(s)?

I guess the third question is…
Do the teflon caps do much for the sound?

I’ll be running these on the 2C speakers for now.
I’ll likely “move on” the 2W and the RCA HPF from them.

Edited by Holmz
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1 hour ago, Holmz said:

It looks like all the dip switches need to be off for 100k input impedance of the amp, but the used M5-HPFs are old, and I noticed a 9V battery inside.
Should I be rocking the PCB back to get to it, or just desolder the old battery at the posts and solder the new battery at the posts?
It looks like it should be easier to desolder the old batter at the PCB, and then solder to the posts of the new battery… and then solder the jumpers to the PCB as the second step.

Almost tempted to attach a 9V regular battery plug in harness, but I suppose it is a better connection with the solder.

 

Another question, which I assume is “Doesn’t matter” is:
Does it matter whether I put these near the preamp? Or near the amp(s)?

I guess the third question is…
Do the teflon caps do much for the sound?

I’ll be running these on the 2C speakers for now.
I’ll likely “move on” the 2W and the RCA HPF from them.

Holmz, be very careful the batteries are soldered because any noise (9 volts) in the connections will get coupled into your amplifiers input which will be catastrophic!   The battery must be secured with a tie wrap, double stick tape, and soldered.  Solder the battery wire by applying the heat to the wire because it is easy to compromise the internals.  It is best to place the high-pass in the amplifier input because the source impedance will be higher after going through the internal coupling caps.  Teflon caps are the most transparent available but must be biased for 5 to 7 weeks to sound best.  RV

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7 hours ago, TomicTime said:

OR for what in my mind is a VERY reasonable fee you can have an expert at Vandersteen do the work…..far far down the learning and improvement curve….. #1 of anything…… well… ? i do understand shipping where you are is expensive….

 

Shipping is cheap via USPS… Just they will not ship anything with a battery in it.

I’ll dig out the volt meter…

and then I’ll contact the shop in Melbourne, as I fly there in a month for a concert… and then to look at speakers and get fitted up for.a new bicycle.
One that goes up hills better as I am older man and no longer a weapon on a bike. ..(and in reality I wasn’t much of one before.)

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1 hour ago, GdnrBob said:

I just had a vase shipped from Down Under.  It took almost two months to get here.

Bob

Usually 2-3 weeks via USPS… but the holidays slow things up.
AusPost can take 3 weeks domestically, so I am not surprised at 2 months internationally. 

 

Luck is not the word to use…, But I am lucky that that and forming will be done before I figure out what amps to hook the M5-HPFs up to. 😀

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Maybe “Luck” is the word to use?

I busted out the volt meter, and it read 9.44V on one the HPFs, so I’ll check the other.
I was assuming that because of their age, that they would be nearing end of life...
(They must have 9 lives in a 9V battery 🐈‍⬛)

I still needed to open the cover to set them to 100k, so “Bob’s your uncle”.

Edited by Holmz
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