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re-installing crossovers in 5A


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I sent my crossovers off for battery replacement, they were returned yesterday.  I am struggling (really struggling) to re-attach the red and black crossover wires to the amplifier.  I managed, somehow, to get one attached but have no luck getting the other one attached.  The red and black wires seem to have no place to go in the amp.  Can anyone provide some help here?  Is this a two-person job, one with a flashlight, one with ???  I am so frustrated by this.  Seems a poor design.

Edited by RWP
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3 minutes ago, RWP said:

I sent my crossovers off for battery replacement, they were returned yesterday.  I am struggling (really struggling) to re-attach the red and black crossover wires to the amplifier.  I managed, somehow, to get one attached but have no luck getting the other one attached.  The red and black wires seem to have no place to go in the amp.  Can anyone provide some help here?  Is this a two-person job, one with a flashlight, one with ???  I am so frustrated by this.  Seems a poor design.

RWP, if you are old like me, you may need someone to hold a light so you can see the holes in the input terminal strip marked Red and Black.  At my age I would need a terminal strip for #2 cable, but that connector would consume 25% of the PCB and not tighten down on the input wires for a good connection.  Take your light and look down through the rectangular hole in the cover so you will know what you are working with.  It is a good design that has passed the test of time now for over 25 years, IMHO.  RV

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I see the hole for the middle, non-used slot, but there seems to be a metal flap hanging down covering the holes on the red and black outside screw slots.  I was able to push the end of a toothpick into the middle hole easily, but not to the two end ones.  

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If you were to ever re-design, I would suggest putting a cable-connector on the two wires so one would not need to remove them from the amp with the small red and black screws.  This is incredibly frustrating, not being able to re-connect.

Edited by RWP
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over the years w several models, i have done this process 6 times or so. While it is not my favorite step, i have learned a few “ tricks “

( i also take photos as i go… trying to find those… so far no luck…

1.) i use books to hold the amp at elevation and angle where i can work.

2. lots of light helps

3.) the tinned wire leads get deformed by the pressure of the set screw, so straighten them prior to reinsert 

4.) carefully back off the set screw

5.) i have some bent nose fine needle nose i use to hold the wires for reinsertion 

Best to you, 

Jim

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Once I got the case work out of the way and could examine the connector closely, I did notice that inside the connector housing there is a thin piece of sheet metal that gets pushed in by the set screw to contact the wire. That piece of sheet metal needs to be pushed back out of the way to make room for the incoming wire. I used a small ice pick to bend it back out of the way after backing the set screw all the way out.  This allowed for the wire to slide right in. The sheet metal is thin so I’m sure it can be pushed out of the way by the tinned wire end if you use needle nose pliers and get the right angle/pressure on it. 

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One way to accomplish getting the sheet metal out of the way to make cable insertion very easy without removing the casework would be to use a 90 degree ice pick. You could insert the 90 degree ice pick into the connector through the hole in the casework shown in Jim’s pictures and apply light pressure towards the set screw to open up the hole. Just make sure the set screws are backed out. 

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Note to self.. simulate a crossover installation at the dealer when I am ready to upgrade 😆

With my tendency towards clumsiness, I am sure I will be driving to Hanford with a crate filled with drivers and electronics after attempting to replace the crossover..

Edited by stratocaster
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2 hours ago, stratocaster said:

Note to self.. simulate a crossover installation at the dealer when I am ready to upgrade 😆

With my tendency towards clumsiness, I am sure I will be driving to Hanford with a crate filled with drivers and electronics after attempting to replace the crossover..

just schedule it for Winter…. i work for butter chicken…..

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I am having my original dealer come over and re-install (he is a gem, one of the best humans I know).  I say again, this is a poor design, in my opinion (with all due respect to Mr Vandersteen); it should be far easier to accomplish than it is, and not just for me, but clearly for others on this small focused site.   This is far from unplug/plug and then play.   I am fortunate to have another setup in a different room, so I am not without music during this (frustrating) period of time.  

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4 hours ago, RWP said:

I am having my original dealer come over and re-install (he is a gem, one of the best humans I know).  I say again, this is a poor design, in my opinion (with all due respect to Mr Vandersteen); it should be far easier to accomplish than it is, and not just for me, but clearly for others on this small focused site.   This is far from unplug/plug and then play.   I am fortunate to have another setup in a different room, so I am not without music during this (frustrating) period of time.  

RWP, you are in good hands as John has completed this service dozens of times without ever complaining about the design.   Hundreds of owners have accomplished this on their own even though for liability reasons it was never designed for everyone to be able to.  This is especially true of the High-Passes as a bad connection on the battery can cause thousands of dollars in damage.  Soon you will be in sonic bliss for another 12 years.  RV

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